The Heavy - Short Change Hero
Tuesday, August 21, 2012
Monday, August 20, 2012
Sunday, August 12, 2012
Smith & Wesson Model 10-4
Chalk up another one for the Coyote gunsmith.
This one was not easy, but with this video I avoided all the pitfalls. Thanks to this guy. Did this one for a friend
PART I PART II
This one was not easy, but with this video I avoided all the pitfalls. Thanks to this guy. Did this one for a friend
PART I PART II
Wednesday, July 18, 2012
Shooters Exposure to Lead - Be Safe
Lead
Exposure At the Shooting Range
Sources of lead during shooting include:
Sources of lead during shooting include:
The primer compound, which is made of about 50 percent lead-containing compounds
The effect of the hot propellant gases on the base of the lead bullet;
Friction of the bullet against the barrel wall;
Fragmentation of the bullet against the target and backstop.
After the bullet leaves the muzzle of a handgun, the lead-containing gases naturally stream forward, unless they are diverted by wind or ventilation-created air currents. In a handgun with a compensator, the lead-containing gases stream in the direction of the compensator vents as well as out the muzzle. In an automatic pistol, as the slide returns to eject the spent case, some lead-containing gases are directed back toward the shooter. Fragmentation of the bullet against the target and backstop results in significant lead dispersal.
TIPS TO PREVENT LEAD POISON:
·
Use
copper-covered bullets.
·
Do not shoot in a poorly ventilated indoor
range.
·
Do not clean up lead dust in an indoor range
without the use of a protective air filter.
·
Do not clean up the lead fragments against the
backstop without the use of a protective air filter.
·
Avoid shooting on days when the wind is
blowing toward you.
·
Consider limiting the time you shoot on a busy
range to minimize exposure to second hand lead.
·
Consider sending as few shooters as possible
to score or put up new targets in an indoor range since the air lead is highest
at the target. Share this risk.
·
Do not eat while shooting. After shooting, wash your hands thoroughly
before you eat.
·
Do not smoke while shooting. After shooting, wash your hands thoroughly
before you smoke.
·
Leave indoor ranges immediately after
shooting.
·
Change your shirt after shooting to avoid
exposure to the lead that accumulates on your clothes. Wash your clothes after a trip to the range.
·
Have your blood lead checked if you shoot on a
weekly basis, if you shoot or reload more than 500 rounds a month, or if you
develop any symptoms of lead poisoning.
·
Consider wearing a protective air filter if
your blood lead is elevated.
LEAD SOURCES:
Lead (chemical symbol:
Pb) Lead accumulates in the human body because it is one of the few ingredients
not eliminated via kidney, liver or other methods of waste removal functions,
thus causing damage to red blood cells. Tiny doses of lead, ingested through
respiration or digestion accumulate over a long period of time can get into the
blood.
Projectiles are made up of lead, copper, zinc and antimony. The common properties of a primer are: copper, zinc, lead antimony, barium, lead styphnate and tetazene. Unless the bullet is totally encased in a non-lead product (copper), elemental lead is shaved as it passes through the barrel and then dispersed into the air.
The greatest risk to shooters is the compound leads that are vaporized and formed by the burning powder. There are two sources of this dangerous gas. One is the burning powder sears the base of the lead projectile causing lead gases to be expelled with the powder residue. The next source is the vaporized lead and lead styphnate when the primer is discharged.
Well know is the fact that long term and/or short intense exposure to lead particles and dust can cause lead poisoning. The sport of shooting and reloading should be safe if you are keenly aware of toxic levels of lead.
Even the tiniest amount as small as 1/2 of 1/10 of one grain (.005), dissolved in your blood can produce adverse conditions.
Projectiles are made up of lead, copper, zinc and antimony. The common properties of a primer are: copper, zinc, lead antimony, barium, lead styphnate and tetazene. Unless the bullet is totally encased in a non-lead product (copper), elemental lead is shaved as it passes through the barrel and then dispersed into the air.
The greatest risk to shooters is the compound leads that are vaporized and formed by the burning powder. There are two sources of this dangerous gas. One is the burning powder sears the base of the lead projectile causing lead gases to be expelled with the powder residue. The next source is the vaporized lead and lead styphnate when the primer is discharged.
Well know is the fact that long term and/or short intense exposure to lead particles and dust can cause lead poisoning. The sport of shooting and reloading should be safe if you are keenly aware of toxic levels of lead.
Even the tiniest amount as small as 1/2 of 1/10 of one grain (.005), dissolved in your blood can produce adverse conditions.
SUGGESTED PREVENTIVE MEASURES:
- Blow your nose after shooting;
- Wash your hands for at least 30 seconds under running water and soap after any shooting or reloading activities;
- Wash hair before bed. Lead particles in the hair can transfer to the pillow and thus be ingested during sleep;
- Use lead free primers. (Copper plated is the best)
- Your physician should test you for lead levels as part of your regular check-up;
- Wear breathing masks for extended time on the range.
- Change your shooting clothes and footwear so as not to contaminate car, home or office;
Common sense is
the key. If lead is a toxin and part of your job involves being exposed to it,
then keeping the work space and your personal gear clean is critical to
avoiding the dangers.
SUGGESTED RANGE RULES AND PROCEDURES:
- Avoid exposure to lead by handling fired cases or shooting should wash their hands and face before eating, drinking or smoking;
- Place contaminated clothes in a plastic bag to transport home to your laundry facilities;
- Wash immediately and separately contaminated clothing.
- Use lead-free ammunition;
- Dry sweeping should never be practiced on the range floor;
- Anyone engaged in shooting activities on a extensive basis should wear breathing masks.
- Some companies specialize in lead reclamation even by "mining" lead from outdoor earth banks.
- Shooters should have a BLL (blood lead level) test every six months.
Lead poisoning is a serious problem for
frequent shooters of non- lead- free ammunition. Lead contamination of clothing that has been
exposed to lead can be a significant factor. Beware of contamination transfer to car,
house, and work environments.
BE
SAFE!
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
REPRINTED:
Tool list:

Remove the magazine, then align the two lines on the rear of the slide:

Push out the slide stop

then pull it out


The slide will now pull off towards the front, removing the barrel and spring is not required for a trigger job

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
next remove the grips using a phillips screw driver

remove the mainspring plug pin (under pressure, push the plug against a table or similar surface while doing this)


then carefully take out the magazine break like so lifting up and pulling forward:

Then release the mainspring plug

Pull out the plug and mainspring

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Next lift up on the sear spring

while lifting up the spring pull out the safety (helps if its on safe to give more to grab onto) The CZ-85B you have to pull out both sides of the safety

lift out the trigger assembly

Remove the sear pin


taken apart, be careful of the two small springs in it (sear spring and firing pin block lever spring)

------------------------------------------------------------------
Next sanding on the sear. I use 400 grit paper and found it to be effective, while sanding I found putting the paper on a flat surface and carefully taking the sear across it the best way do sand it down, though other ways such as using a vise may also work. Also do not round any corners off!
The part to sand, this is after and it gives good trigger pull and weight. Do a little bit at a time to be safe, an note hammer engagement. When the trigger is pulled in single action, if the hammer moves back before releasing this is positive engagement (safest), if it doesn't move its neutral, and if it moves forward, negative (most unsafe). My goal is to have minimal postive engagement, though neutral may be desirable for a target oriented pistol)

Now reassembly of the trigger assembly (basically reverse order)

Leave firing pin safety lever spring like this for reassembly...

Then while carefully pushing lever towards its side move spring to its correct position

Reassembled

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Next is to get the hammer out
Push the safety detent plunger inward

and remove

next is to remove hammer pin retaining peg

Push up on it from here

then pull out from the top using tweezers

Push out the hammer pin

pull the hammer assembly out of the top

Shows the surfaces to be smoothed, also don't round any edges. I would recommend keeping the angles the same here too, can be angled backwards but I recommend against it, as it may cause negative engagement


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reassembly is just reversed, but with a few helpful tips
Lift this spring when putting safety back in

then push back the safety detent plunger back far as you can, while pushing safety back in.

Then reversed order on the main spring and grips and slide.
The mainspring also may be changed too as well to help with trigger pull, especially with double action. I used a Cz-52 spring since I have extras and found them to be reliable, you can get the same effect as cutting coils off, but that is un reversible and you may make it too light, you can get lighter springs here:
www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/EAANF.html
Then as usual function test the pistol and safety.
I hope this helps make your CZ trigger much better.
Tool list:
- picks (like dental picks)
- punch
- phillips screw driver
- sand paper (400 grit works well)
- paddedvise
Remove the magazine, then align the two lines on the rear of the slide:
Push out the slide stop
then pull it out
The slide will now pull off towards the front, removing the barrel and spring is not required for a trigger job
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
next remove the grips using a phillips screw driver
remove the mainspring plug pin (under pressure, push the plug against a table or similar surface while doing this)
then carefully take out the magazine break like so lifting up and pulling forward:
Then release the mainspring plug
Pull out the plug and mainspring
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Next lift up on the sear spring
while lifting up the spring pull out the safety (helps if its on safe to give more to grab onto) The CZ-85B you have to pull out both sides of the safety
lift out the trigger assembly
Remove the sear pin
taken apart, be careful of the two small springs in it (sear spring and firing pin block lever spring)
------------------------------------------------------------------
Next sanding on the sear. I use 400 grit paper and found it to be effective, while sanding I found putting the paper on a flat surface and carefully taking the sear across it the best way do sand it down, though other ways such as using a vise may also work. Also do not round any corners off!
The part to sand, this is after and it gives good trigger pull and weight. Do a little bit at a time to be safe, an note hammer engagement. When the trigger is pulled in single action, if the hammer moves back before releasing this is positive engagement (safest), if it doesn't move its neutral, and if it moves forward, negative (most unsafe). My goal is to have minimal postive engagement, though neutral may be desirable for a target oriented pistol)
Now reassembly of the trigger assembly (basically reverse order)
Leave firing pin safety lever spring like this for reassembly...
Then while carefully pushing lever towards its side move spring to its correct position
Reassembled
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Next is to get the hammer out
Push the safety detent plunger inward
and remove
next is to remove hammer pin retaining peg
Push up on it from here
then pull out from the top using tweezers
Push out the hammer pin
pull the hammer assembly out of the top
Shows the surfaces to be smoothed, also don't round any edges. I would recommend keeping the angles the same here too, can be angled backwards but I recommend against it, as it may cause negative engagement
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reassembly is just reversed, but with a few helpful tips
Lift this spring when putting safety back in
then push back the safety detent plunger back far as you can, while pushing safety back in.
Then reversed order on the main spring and grips and slide.
The mainspring also may be changed too as well to help with trigger pull, especially with double action. I used a Cz-52 spring since I have extras and found them to be reliable, you can get the same effect as cutting coils off, but that is un reversible and you may make it too light, you can get lighter springs here:
www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/EAANF.html
Then as usual function test the pistol and safety.
I hope this helps make your CZ trigger much better.
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